Love an RV Park?

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We’ve decided to stay an extra day here in the Mt. Rushmore area and forgo Yellowstone on the way home.  Not only are there a million things to do in the area, this Mt. Rushmore KOA is great (thanks again, Mike, for the suggestion)!  There is a water slide, two pools, mini golf, a big trampoline-type thing, Sarah Michael absolutely loves it.

There are a ton of kids here too.  They’re all having a blast.  Sarah Michael has already announced we’re coming here every year.  It would be fun for her to come with a friend, we would probably never see them!

The internet connection here isn’t great (I had to drive into Custer to use the library’s network to upload our pics to Flickr) and our phones display No Service most of the time, but maybe that’s a good thing when you’re supposed to be on vacation.

Custer State Park to Mt. Rushmore

Today we drove into Custer State Park to look for animals and see the sights.

We drove along the Wildfife Loop which goes down and around the southern end of the park.  For a while we didn’t see anything but the first animal we enjoyed was a white tailed deer.  He was curious for the length of his tail.

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We were bummed we hadn’t seen any buffalo since last night we saw two of them beside the road, but then we noticed several cars stopped up ahead.  They were stopped to see a herd of buffalo grazing right next to the roadway.  A couple buffalo wandered into the street and walked right past us, which freaked out Sarah Michael, but they weren’t interested in us at all and didn’t bother us.

There were some young ones in the herd and they were very cute.

We continued on and enjoyed the scenery and more animals.  We saw lots more deer and also more donkeys.

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Then we followed the same path out of the park that I’d driven the night before with the RV.  It was great to see the route in the daytime.  We also learned the tight winding bridges are called the Pigtail Bridges and it was cool to actually see them, since last night I had no visual context.

We were also able to see Mt. Rushmore from the mountain road, another thing I couldn’t know at night.

So we made our way down the mountain and onto proper-size roads and then made our way to Mt. Rushmore.

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Mt. Rushmore is quite a sight.  It is exactly what I thought it would be, but it was still neat to see it in person.  We didn’t stay long at the monument, we took a few pictures and visited the gift shop.  In the gift shop I spoke to a woman who was sitting at a table signing books.  She was coauthor of a book about the mountain’s history, so I asked her a few questions then had her sign a copy for us.  I look forward to reading up.  For example did you know that there were nine major design changes to the mountain during construction?  Neither did I, but I don’t know the details yet.  I have to read the book.

South Dakota RV park finding

Our dilly dallying around in 19th century history in Wyoming meant a late arrival into South Dakota.  We had made arrangements to stay in Custer State Park and called ahead to let them know we may arrive a day early and we finally got to the campground around 1am.

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But not before seeing wildlife.  As we drove through the park towards the campground we saw some deer near the road but even better we saw two buffalo.  The first one we saw freaked us out, it was walking just next to a curve in the road and we both only realized what it was just after we’d passed its dark shape.  Jessie was thrilled, she may just get to see some wildlife on this trip.

Shortly before we got to the park Jessie realized that we had not booked a campsite with full hookups, instead it was electricity only.  That’s just not the way we roll.  So we pulled up an email from my friend Mike that recommend a good KOA resort near Mt. Rushmore.  I ran around and confirmed that the entire campground was in fact only had electric hookups, but we had to decide, should we stay here tonight and move in the morning?  I was still plenty awake from all the energy drinks I’d consumed during the drive so I decided to drive to the KOA and figured we could park in their lot until they opened in the morning.

The road suggested by the GPS navigation device took us out of the park to the north, not the way we had just come in.  As we turned out of the park a sign warned that the road ahead was narrow and steep and came with one-lane bridges and tunnels, the shortest clearance only 12 foot 4 inches.  I asked Jessie, “How tall is this RV, didn’t the guy tell us it was 12 foot-something?”  She pulled out the RV information sheet from the rental place and it said “Most of our RVs are 12 feet high…”  Uh oh.

We pressed on.  I figured I’d stop at the tunnel entrance when we found it and climb the ladder to the roof to see if we’d make it in.  I was definitely nervous.

The road itself came through on the narrow and steep promise.  I traveled slowly up the mountain road and was thankful it was middle of the night and no other cars were there to compete for passage.  We saw scores more deer and even encountered two donkeys on the road at one point.  Jessie was tired and decided to go to sleep, and I assured her I’d wake her up if I needed her help to turn around should this gamble go the wrong way.

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After what seemed like forever I finally found the first tunnel.  This was the shortest, the 12 foot 4 inch one.  I maneuvered to get a straight shot into the hole and stopped just as the nose was about to enter.  I climbed the ladder and peered over the air conditioning unit, trying to gauge its relative height and see if I could safely proceed.  Even though I felt like I didn’t have any definitive evidence of any kind, I decided to chance it and go on.

Very slowly I drove into the tunnel and I listened for the possibility of anything on the roof hitting rock.  No sound.  I continued.  No sound.  Then I was safely out.

I continued, confident that I’d passed through the lowest of the tunnels and that I’d be fine the rest of the way.  The road got even windier, the switchback turns very tight indeed, but eventually I stopped climbing and began to descend on the other side of whatever mountain this was.  I had to remain alert, though, because the going down was just as steep as the going up and I didn’t want to lose my brakes.  I got through it and just before 2am I was on real highways again, just miles from our new KOA destination.

One feature of this night was the moon was quite full and bright.  This provided me a nice reward for the last hour’s scary trip, because I actually drove past Mt. Rushmore on the way to the resort.  In the moonlight the faces of the presidents were visible and it was a pretty sight.  A nice way to see the monument for the first time.

I pulled into KOA at 2:00 and parked.  As expected the office was closed so I locked up and laid down and slept.  In the morning I’ll register and get us our site.

Cowboys and Soldiers

We originally planned to stay two nights in Colorado but we decided to bail and get to South Dakota a day earlier if possible.

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On the way north through Wyoming we stopped to see some artifacts from the migration west in the late 1800s.  Just outside the town of Guernsey, Wyoming the Oregon Trail once passed, and as the wagons drove across the sandstone ground their wheels cut ruts into the rock that are still quite visible today.

It is simply unimaginable the hardships faced by the early settlers.  As Sarah Michael and I walked along the trail I told her how easy our lives are compared to the olden-days cowboys who came across with their wagons.  I know she couldn’t fully comprehend what I was telling her, but it was cute when I told her that they didn’t have all that we have today, including TVs.  She replied that she thought maybe they had old fashioned radios.

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A couple miles from the park established around the wagon ruts is Register Cliff.  Into the rock face settlers carved their names and the year of their travel.  Some very old inscriptions can still be found, but the wall is mostly filled in by modern visitors’ carving and scratching.

Just a little while earlier SM and I were walking between the Oregon Trail ruts discussing how rude it was of previous park visitors to engrave their names or initials into the rock between the ruts.  Vandalism like that diminishes the experience for those who come later.  Now here we are visiting a monument to exactly the same kind of vandalism, but it is historical and therefore acceptable.

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Next we stopped to visit the historic Fort Laramie.  Jessie was excited to tour these grounds, she said she had learned a lot about this very place in school.  If I did, I don’t remember anything about it.

The park service has done a wonderful job restoring some of the buildings and you can walk in some of the buildings and look into some of the rooms that are done up like they would have been 150 years ago.  Glass prevents you from entering the rooms, but you can look in.  It is really cool.

Other structures are in ruins, but the way they stand juxtaposed against the restored buildings reminds you that this place is quite old while still giving a sense of what it might have been like long ago.

Returning to Ft. Collins

From about the time I was in preschool through third grade my family lived in Fort Collins, Colorado.  Since our route though Colorado towards Mount Rushmore went right through Ft Collins, I wanted to show the girls where I lived during these young years.

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First we drove past the church where I went to preschool.  Then we went by my old elementary school.  The building looked so small!  The building looked exactly as I remembered it, except that what used to be seem large is now obviously designed for very small people.  We drove past the swimming pool I would play in during the summer, the SCCA, a place I had totally forgotten about.

We drove the route I used to walk to and from school and the distance was a lot shorter than I remember.  But the neighborhood didn’t seem to have changed at all.  I showed Jessie and Sarah Michael where my friend Kyle lived, and where the neighbor Lola lived.

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Then we got to our old house at 205 Darmouth Trail. The house is just as I remember, though I’m sure the shutters are a different color, and the trees are now much larger.

Less than a block away from our old house was the park where I would play as a boy.  I showed SM the lake I used to fish in, the creek I used to pull crawdads from, I even remembered one of the trees that stood beside the creek.  I walked up the hill I used to sled down and took in the view, the park is so beautiful.  Sarah Michael played on the playground, and she and I went on the swings together.  It was a lot of fun.

We were so lucky to live in such a cute little neighborhood with a wonderful park practically across the street.

Driving to Colorado

North of Moab we got onto eastbound I-70.  This is really one of the first times on the trip we’ve spent a lot of time on an actual interstate freeway.  The speed limit is 75, but we can’t go that fast.

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I-70 is impressive, as it moves into the mountains the east and west-bound lanes are for long stretches elevated on bridges, allowing them to be wider than they could be if the road had been build on the actual ground.  It looks cool, too.  Well done highway designers.

We made our way along, and it was fun to see the landscape change.  The rocky cliffs remained for a while, but green trees started to appear and the hillsides grew greener and greener.

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We got hungry and asked the Garmin which restaurants were nearby, and lucky for Sarah Michael her favorite kind of food was just few miles ahead.  Sato Sushi was the place in Edwards, CO.  The food was good and town is cute.  It should be, it is quite near Vail and affluence clearly infects this place too.  If I could afford it it seemed like a nice place to live.

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As we climbed the mountain pass higher, it began to rain.  This was a nice change.  We haven’t seen proper rain for quite a while and I missed it!  Then we climbed even higher and the rain started to change to snow!  The highest we got was just over 11,000 feet, there was more mountain still ahead of us but thankfully we were spared more climbing, the long Eisenhower-Johnson tunnel allowed us to start going back down.  This was good, the RV was really laboring to pull itself and the jeep up the steep grade and we were not able to maintain any speed at all.  By the time we reached the entrance to the tunnel we were down to 25 miles an hour.

As we neared the bottom of the mountain near Denver, we saw a couple of great freeway signs.  They came and went too quickly for us to get pictures, but RockyMountainRoads has pictures here and here.

We finally arrived our destination, St. Vrain State Park, after 10pm, though we would have been there sooner had the Garmin actually known where the place was.  I had preloaded the GPS system with our destinations based on addresses or other info we got when booking our stays, and we were sent about three miles off course.  Not a great distance, but when you’re driving a vehicle with a 100-yard turning radius that can’t back up because of its towed vehicle it makes correcting navagational mistakes more of a challenge.

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Good night!

Arches

This morning we left Moab for Colorado, but we stopped along the way at Arches National Park.

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Arches is beautiful.  It is similar to Monument Valley, but different enough to make it worth the visit.  One difference is that since Arches is a National Park visitors have much more access to the rocks.  At Monument Valley we weren’t allowed to go off the beaten path, but at Arches we could park the car then walk up close and climb on the rocks.  Certainly this could be at someone’s peril, as there are plenty of dangerous places to go, but that’s part of the fun.

Arches is also inexpensive to visit, $10 for our carload.

Arches is also in Moab, which appears to be a paradise for anyone with desires for Jeeping, mountain biking or river rafting.  It is a beautiful area.

Oh, another difference betwen Arches National Park and Monument Valley is that while Monument Valley is viewed from a dusty dirt road, Arches is nicely paved.

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There are, of course, arches.

We stopped at Double Arch and walked over to climb into it.

As we walked on the trail, Sarah Michael noticed that her voice echoed off the rock walls, this amused her.  So we make loud noises to hear them come back to us, I’m not sure the foreign tourists appreciated this.

Climbing on the rocks isn’t especially difficult, but you must pay attention.  It is steepish but there are plenty of bits to put your toes and fingers onto.  The last bit of the climb to get up into the smaller archway was the most difficult so I basically held Sarah Michael up as she found footholds to use.  It was fun, though, and made me wish for more time in Arches so we could explore and climb more.

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Alas we didn’t visit very much of the park, it was already 11am and we knew we had a long drive ahead to get us to our next campground in Longmont, Colorado.

So off we went.  Southern Utah is really something, I look forward to returning to see more.

Jessie saw a deer!

Here we are driving on I-70 through eastern Utah on the way to Colorado.  Jessie is at the wheel and she just saw a deer!  She’s been feeling left out and gets frustrated by the road signs warning of animal possibility.

So a big Hooray!  Jessie saw a deer!

Utah!

Have you ever noticed that Utah license plates don’t say “Utah”, instead they say “Utah!”?  I’m starting to see why, there is some amazing stuff to see here and we haven’t even gone off the highway yet.

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After going through Mexican Hat, UT which is named for a rock formation that looks sombrero-ish, the red rock whose dust we’ve been breathing for the last few hours is gone and the geology has been replaced by something entirely different.

Then you’ll go up a canyon and then down into another that looks different again.  The topology, geology, geography or whatever is constantly changing and is good fun to look at.  The rocks some in some pretty neat shapes too, and right next to the highway!

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We passed a lot we wished we could have seen, Needles, Natural Bridges, Valley of the Gods.  Plus I see all kinds of roads with Jeeping potential.  We are definitely coming back.

We decided to bail on Four Corners, we’ll save that for a future visit when we can see southwest Colorado and a time when Sarah Michael finds all this stuff more interesting.

We were about to drop down a steep grade on the highway when we were stopped by the Highway Patrol.  They were closing north-bound traffic while they let south-bound traffic use our lane on the grade to get past a slow-moving wide load.  We only had to wait about ten minutes but we were sure curious what the fuss was about.  I don’t know what that truck was hauling, but it was enormous.

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About 30 minutes south of Moab we drove up on Wilson Arch and stopped to have a closer look.  How can stuff this amazing be so accessible?

You can climb right up into the hole in the rock, which we did. It is so beautiful!

We finally arrived into Moab at 7:30 and got into our RV park.  This is a beauitful area, I’m sad we can’t spend more time here this trip, but knowing we’ll come back and we have so much to look forward to is quite a comfort.

Monument Valley

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The plan today was to drive to Four Corners, then go north to Moab, UT where we’re going to stay the night.  As we headed east we entered the town of Kayenta, AZ to gas up and from there saw this huge dark monolith in the distance.

We checked the map and saw that north of Kayenta was Monument Valley, a name that think I’ve heard before.  Monument Valley is actually several miles north, but the rocks we could see from Kayenta told us we needed to detour north and check out this action.

Monument Valley is amazing.  I loved it.  To visit costs a whopping $5 per adult (hear that Skywalk people?).  Then you can park and go to the Visitor Center (they’re in the middle of building a new one) or travel the 17-mile dirt road loop through the valley.  Oh yes, that’s what the Jeep is for.

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Everywhere you look there are incredible rock formations.  A bummer is that you’re quite limited in where you can go, secondary roads that might lead from the main loop are forbidden, but that’s ok, the views from the main road are great.

Many of the formations have names.  There’s the Elephant, the Camel, Three Sisters, Totem Poles and lots more.  There are huge boulders that have fallen off the cliffs, and some of them sit atop much smaller rocks, making for fun and precarious photo opportunites.

I took a lot of pictures, way more than are necessary to make the point, but it is hard not to.  Everywhere you look you’re like, “Whoa!” and “Check that out!” and on and on.

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Monument Valley is a must-do.  I recommend it highly.  It is cheap and you don’t actually need a 4×4 vehicle to make the loop.  Most people were driving their rental minivans and sedans and they all did fine.  We did see three rented RVs on the loop, but I wouldn’t recommend doing that.